Collar construction

ABSTRACT

A soft (non-fused) collar structure and controlled floating collar stay implementing production, and subsequent use of the collar; and method for forming the collar. An improved stay is formed of an elongate strip of flat resilient flexible sheet material having a central portion and end portions at opposed ends of said central portion, each of which end portions is narrower in width than the width of the central portion. Hook means are formed on the end portions of said stay extending from said end portions toward said central portion, with an indent formed on said central portion beneath said hook means. The collar is formed by inserting the stays in pre-cut slits in a collar end piece. One end piece is then arranged over each end of the bottom collar ply after it has been superposed on an upper collar ply which has been placed on a collar lining to form a sewing package. The package is then stitched to connect the end pieces, lining and the collar plies. Thereafter the stitched package is turned to form a collar with the tips of the stay sandwiched and floatingly held between the collar lining and end pieces to prevent abrasion of the outer upper and lower collar plies.

United States Patent n91 Williams et al.

[ 3,842,435 5] Oct. 22, 1974 COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Phillips-Van HeusenCorporation, New York, NY.

[22] Filed: Jan. 10, 1973 [21] Appl. No.: 322,297

[73] Assignee:

[52] U.S. Cl 2/132, 2/143, 2/257 [51] Int. Cl A4lb 3/00 [58] Field ofSearch 2/132, l3l, 134, 255, 256,

Primary ExaminerJames R. Boler 57 ABSTRACT A soft (non-fused) collarstructure and controlled floating collar stay implementing production,and subsequent use of the collar; and method for forming the collar. Animproved stay is formed of an elongate strip of flat resilient flexiblesheet material having a central portion and end portions at opposed endsof said central portion, each of which end portions is narrower in widththan the width of the central portion. Hook means are formed on the endportions of said stay extending from said end portions toward saidcentral portion, with an indent formed on said central portion beneathsaid hook means. The collar is formed by inserting the stays in pre-cutslits in a collar end piece. One end piece is then arranged over eachend of the bottom collar ply after it has been superposed on an uppercollar ply which has been placed on a collar lining to form a sewingpackage. The package is then stitched to connect the end pieces, liningand the collar plies. Thereafter the stitched package is turned to forma collar with the tips of the stay sandwiched and floatingly heldbetween the collar lining and end pieces to prevent abrasion of theouter upper and lower collar plies.

10 Claims, 5 Drawing Figures COLLAR CONSTRUCTION BACKGROUND OF INVENTIONThis invention relates to the art of soft collar constructions, and animproved collar stay serving to facilitate collar production, and tomaintain the collar in desired orientation in use with minimal abrasionof the collar plies by the stay.

Collars have long been provided with reinforcing stays positioned at theend of the collar to maintain the collar points in desired orientation.These stays as conventionally employed comprise an elongate strip offlexible material having a rigidity greater than that of the fabric ofwhich the collar is made, so that the rigidity of the stay acts toprevent distortion of the collar fabric. These stays as previouslyemployed have either been inserted through one or more slits provided inthe collar fabric, or laminated or sewn in position on a collar lining,with the stay intended to remain in position between the collar plies.

In the past, such stays have been removably positioned so that theconsumer could remove the stays during laundering, so as to preventdamage to the stay and/or collar fabric, re-inserting the stays when theshirt was to be worn. Such removably positioned stays were foundunsatisfactory, in that the stays got lost, and the consumer often foundit burdensome to have to remove and re-insert the stays, oftenforgetting with resultant damage to the stay and/or collar.

Accordingly, stays have been evolved which have been fixed in positionatthe time of manufacture of the collar. Such stays increased the costof production, in that the manipulative steps required in positioning ofthe stay increased production costs. Further it was found that thedesired precise location of the stay between the collar plies at thecollar ends was not readily attainable, so that in the event of staymispositioning, desired rigidity was often not present at the collarpoints which turned up as a result.

To minimize the likelihood of stay displacement, collars have beenformed with two interlining plies sewn together along stitch linesdefining a pocket for the stay. However, this additional sewing to formthe stay pockets increased costs, and the pocket stitch lines ofteninterferred with desired collar smoothness, where outer collar plies arethin.

In an attempt to minimize costs, and lack of smoothness produced byforming stay pockets, a fused collar technique has been evolved, asshown by U.S. Pat. No. 3,132,347 to Light in which a stay is fusedbetween two collar interlining layers, and one of the stay sandwichinginterlining layers is bonded to an outer collar ply. Though this fusingof the stay eliminates the need for stitching, and eliminates the needfor stay removal, the

i with stay reinforced collar tips in which wear and tear ing minimalstitching and manual manipulation during manufacture, thereby minimizingproduction cost and manufacturing errors.

These and other objects of the invention which will become hereafterapparent are achieved by forming a stay of an elongate strip of flexibleresilient sheet material such as nylon, Mylar or any of a variety ofnatural or synthetic materials known to be suitable in forming collarstays. The elongate strip forming the stay is saving in stitching costsis substantially negated by the BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION It iswith the above considerations in mind that the present improved collarstructure along with an improved floating stay, and method ofconstruction have shaped with a central portion having undercut indents.End portions extend outwardly from said central portion from the endpoints of each of said indents, and a hook portion extends toward saidcentral portion from said end portions over said indents. The collaremploying the stay is formed by forming end pieces for the collar, onefor each collar end, with two spaced slits in each end piece. A stay isthreaded through the slits in each end piece. A sewing package is formedby positioning the top collar ply on a collar lining ply. The bottomcollar ply is then arranged on the superpositioned top and bottom plies,and the end pieces with stays inserted on the lining are positioned overthe ends of the superposed plies. The package is then stitched along itsedges, leaving the neck band edge open, and the collar is turned byseparating the bottom ply from the top ply and inverting the top ply sothat the lining ply and end pieces are sandwiched between the top andbottom plies.

A feature of the invention resides in the provision of a controlledfloating stay in a soft collar construction, in which the stay thoughheld in a desired position in the collar to provide desired stiffeningof the collar points, is subject to shifting with respect to the collarplies so that stretching of the fabric over the stay points and edges isminimized and abrasion and wear and tear of the collar fabric isminimized.

Another feature of the invention resides in the novel method ofconstruction permitting desired positioning of the stay in the collarduring manufacture with a minimum of manipulative and sewing steps andrequiring minimal operators skill.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS The specific details illustrating how tomake and use a preferred embodiment of the invention, and the best modecontemplated for carrying out of the invention will be described inclear concise and exact terms in conjunction with the accompanyingdrawings wherein:

FIG. 1 is an enlarged plan view of a stay made in accordance with theinvention;

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of an end piece of a collar made in accordancewith the invention illustrating a preferred mode of using the stay ofFIG. 1 and showing the end piece surface which should be positionedfacing the interlining with the stay in position;

FIG. 3 is a top plan view of the obverse face of the end piece shown inFIG. 2, illustrating the end piece surface which should be positionedfacing the bottom P y;

FIG. 4 is a schematic perspective view of an assembled sewing packagefor forming a collar prior to turning with the desired relativepositions of the top and bottom collar plies, lining and end piecesillustratively showmalong with desired stay position, dot dash linesindicating the hidden stay points, and dash lines indicating stitching;and

FIG. 5 is a top plan view of an assembled collar formed from the sewingpackage of FIG. 4, dot dash lines indicating the hidden stay, and dashlines indicating the line of top stitching.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now more particularly tothe drawings, like numerals in the various figures will be employed todesignate like parts.

As shown in FIG. 1', the novel stay is formed of an elongate strip offlat flexible sheet material. A variety of different flexible sheetmaterials may be employed in fabricating the stay 10 such as known tothose skilled in the art. Thus, materials ranging from the now out ofuse natural products such as whalebone through sheet steel and the morecontemporarily used synthetics such as the plastics, including nylon,Mylar, Teflon or the like, may be satisfactorily employed.

The strip of flexible sheet material forming the stay 10 is formed witha central portion 12 having parallel edges 14. Indents 16 are formed bytapered parts on said central portion, the tapered parts formed by theedges of the central portion converging towards each other andterminating at a point spaced from the ends of the stay.

End portions 18 as best seen in FIG. 1 are formed at opposite ends ofthe central portion 12, extending outwardly from the point oftermination of the converging edges of the central portion formingindents 16. The end portions 18 are narrower in width, as measured on anaxis transverse to the longitudinal axis of the stay across the widestpart of the end portion 18. The free terminal ends 20 of the endportions are preferably tapered and rounded as illustrated to provide anentry tip facilitating insertion of the stay into a slot in a collar endpiece as will become hereinafter apparent. Hook portions 24 extend fromthe end portions 18 over the indents 16 of the central stay portion 12,at a spaced distance from the tapered edges of the central portionforming the indents 16, as best seen in FIG. 1.

In using the stay 10 in accordance with the invention it. is preferredthat the stay 10 be employed with collar end pieces 25, asillustratively shown in FIGS. 2 and 3. End pieces '25 may be formed ofany one of a variety of materials, such as known to those skilled in theart to be suitable in forming collar interlinings. Thus, though, as willbe understood by those skilled in the art, the end piece may be formedof the same material as the collar to be formed, it is preferable toemploy a lining material stiffer than the fabric employed in forming theouter plies of the collar. Woven Dacron has been found eminentlysuitable. The end pieces as illustrated are contoured in the shape ofthe collar to be formed,

of a dimension to lie over the ends of other plies of the collar withthe points 26 of the end pieces cutoff as shown so as not to extend overthe points of the unturned collar plies. Spaced slits 27 and 28 are cutinto the end pieces spaced apart a distance slightly less than thedistance between the end points of the tapered edges of the stay formingindents 16 and preferably equal to the distance between the tips ofopposed stay hooks 24. Each slit 27 and 28 is of a length greater thanthe maximum width of stay end portions 18, and less than the width ofstay central portion 12.

Stay 10 is assembled with end piece 25 by threading stay tips 20 throughend piece slits 27 and 28, the stay 12 being flexed to bring the stayentry tip into position for insertion into slits 27 and 28. Upon releaseof the stay flexing forces, the stay will assume the flat extendedorientation shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, with the stay end portions 18 andhooks 24 lying on one face of the end piece 20, as seen in FIG. 2, andthe central portion 12 of the stay lying on the opposed face of the endpiece 25, as seen in FIG. 3.

A sewing package 30 as shown in FIG. 4 is formed for producing a collarby forming a lining 32, top collar ply 34 and bottom collar ply 36 of acontour like that of the collar to be formed, with the lining and pliesdimensioned slightly larger than the finished collar. The points 38 ofthe top and bottom collar plies are cut to form an angle larger than theangle between the normal line of extension of the thrust edge 41 andcape edge 42 of the collar to be formed. The lining 32 is formed withcut off points like points 26 on end pieces 25 as seen in FIGS. 2 and 3,the line 39 of lining point and end piece point, cut off preferablylying on the base of the triangle formed by the points 38 of the collarplies, as seen in FIG. 4.

The sewing package 30 is formed by superposing top ply 34 on lining 32,and positioning bottom ply 36 on superposed ply 34 and lining 32. Endpieces 25 with stays 10 positioned in the slots thereof are arrangedover the ends of bottom ply 36 with the central stay portion sandwichedbetween bottom ply 36 and end piece 25 as seen in FIG. 4. All of theplies, lining and end pieces are oriented with their cape edges 42 andthrust edges respectively aligned as viewed in FIG. 4.

A running seam 45 is then sewn through the above described alignedplies, lining and end pieces, with the line of the running seam lyingalong the desired boundary of the collar to be formed, and preferablyabout l/4 inch from the edge of the package 30 as seen in FIG. 4. Therunning seam extends only along the thrust edges 41 and cape edge 42,leaving the neck band attaching edge 47 of the package unsewn, andpassing beyond the tips of stays 10, so as to leave the stays free.

Thereafter, formation of the collar 50, as illustratively shown in FIG.5 is accomplished by turning the plies of the package 30 by separatingthe bottom ply 36 from top ply 34 and turning the separated plies inopposite directions about the running seam 45 as an axis of rotation soas to invert and expose the top and bottom plies 34 and 36 as theexterior of the package, with running seam 45 hidden and defining theedge of the collar along the cape edge 42 and thrust edge 41. The openneck band attaching edge 47 is then attached to a neck band 51 inconventional fashion.

As illustratively shown, top stitching 55 is run around the cape edge 42and thrust edges 4! of the collar, and

edge 47.

OPERATION The collar 50 is formed as above described with the stayfloatingly positioned in the slits 27 and 28 of end pieces 25. informing the collar, under mass production, factory conditions, it ispreferred to die cut the end pieces 25, simultaneously die cutting theslits 26 and 27 in these end pieces, so that the dimension and positionof the slits is consistently and precisely located on each end piece.

Thereafter, the stays 10 are subject to relatively rapid manualthreading through the slits, by relatively unskilled operators, whomerely have to make certain that the stay hooks 24 are exposed on thesame face of the end piece.

Assembly of the end piece with the stay into the package 30 insuresdesired positioning of the stay at the desired location, and merelyrequires lining up the thrust and cape edges of the end pieces with thethrust and cape edges of the previously aligned plies in the package 30.

After sewing the running stitch 45 to maintain the package plies inposition, turning does not present a problem with maintaining thedesired stay position, since the limited floating action of the stayaccommodates the turning forces, with the stay thereafter shifting backto its desired orientation.

In use, the stay reinforced collar 50 is subject to less ply abrasionthan encountered with previously em ployed permanently secured stays,since the controlled floating of the stay by permitting relativeshifting of the collar plies with respect to the stay, minimizesstretching of the ply fibers over the edges of the stay.

It is thus seen that a relatively simple soft collar construction hasbeen provided employing a controlled floating stay adapted for simpleinexpensive accurate positioning in the collar during assembly whichfacilitates collar production, and minimizes collar wear in use.

The above disclosure has been given by way of illustration andelucidation and not by way of limitation, and it is desired to protectall embodiments of the herein disclosed inventive concept within thescope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. A collar stay comprising an elongate strip of flat flexible sheetmaterial having a central portion extending longitudinally over a majorportion of the length of said strip; indents formed by tapered parts onsaid central portion the edges of which converge towards each other,terminating at a point spaced from the end of said strip; end portionson said strip one on each end of said central portion extending from thepoint of termination of said tapered parts on said central portion, saidend portions being narrower than said central portion; tapered ends onsaid end portions providing an entry tip on said end portions; and ahook portion on said end portions extending over said indents on saidcentral portion at a spaced distance therefrom and extending toward saidcentral portion.

2. A stay as in claim 1 in which said end portions comprise straightparallel edges leading from said book portions to a pointtransitioning'into tapered edges forming said tapered ends, the spacingbetween said parallel edges being less than the maximum spacing betweenthe edges of said central portion.

3. A stay as in claim l in which said central portion has parallelstraight edges extending between the tapered portions defining saidindents, the spacing between said parallel straight edges being greaterthan the maximum spacing between the edges of said end portions.

4. A collar end piece for floatingly supporting and in combination witha stay as in claim 1 in a collar, said end piece formed of a flexiblepiece of lining material contoured to conform to the shape of the endsof the collar; and spaced slits in said end piece, each slit having alength less than the maximum width of said central portion of said stay,and greater than the maximum distance across said end portions, saidslits spaced apart a distance greater than the length between thetransition of said central portion into the tapered parts forming saidindents, and less than the distance between the points of termination ofsaid tapered parts, whereby a stay inserted into said slots will befloatingly positioned with the slits extending over said idents of saidstays.

5. A collar end piece as in claim 4- in which the points of said endpiece are cut off along a line beyond the entry tip of said stay held insaid sllits.

6. A sewing package forming a collar employing a stay as inclaim 1, saidsewing package comprising: a lining ply contoured in the shape of thecollar to be formed; a collar top ply contoured like said lining andpositioned thereover; a bottom collar ply contoured like said top plyand positioned thereover; two end pieces contoured like the ends of saidlining ply, one end piece positioned over each end of said bottom collarply, said end pieces having spaced slits through which said stay isextended with an entry tip spaced from the points of the collar shapedplies; and a running seam stitched about the thrust and cape edges ofsaid. collar shaped plies between the stay tips and ply edges.

7. A sewing package as in claim 6 in which the points of said top andbottom plies are "formed at an angle larger than the angle formed by theextension of the lines defining the cape and thrust edges of the collar.

8. A sewing package as in claim 6 in which said end piece has its pointscut off along a line corresponding to the base of the triangle definingthe angle of said collar ply points.

9. A soft collar construction employing the stay of claim 1, said collarcomprising: an elongate bottom ply contoured in the shape of the desiredcollar with ends of desired shape; a toy ply contoured like said topply; two end pieces, one interposed between said top and bottom plies atthe ends of said top and bottom plies, said end pieces having a pair ofspaced slits therein of a dimension less than the maximum width of saidcentral portion of said stay and wider than the maximum width of saidstay end portions, said stay interlaced in said slots with an endportion of said stay lying adjacent a point of said collar; and a lineof stitching securing said plies and end pieces along their edges, saidstitching line extending beyond the entry tips of said stays, wherebysaid stays will be floatingly secured at a desired location in saidcollar.

10. A method of forming a collar with a floating stay as in claim 1,said method comprising the steps of shaping a flexible fabric into alining ply contoured like that of the collar to be formed with an edgeextending beyond the desired bounds of the collar; shaping a fabric intoa top ply of a contour and dimension like that of the lining ply;shaping a fabric into a bottom ply congruent to said top ply; formingtwo end pieces dimensioned and contoured to be congruent with the endportions of said lining ply; forming two spaced slits in said endpieces; threading one of said stays through the two spaced slits in eachend piece, with the end portions of said stay lying on one surface ofsaid end piece and the central portion lying on the opposite surface ofsaid end piece; superposing the top ply over the lining with cape andthrust edges aligned; positioning the bottom ply over the top ply withcape and thrust edges aligned; positioning a stay threaded end pieceover the superposed bottom ply and top ply adjacent the ends of saidplies with cape and thrust edges aligned; running a line of stitchingaround the superposed edges of the plies and end pieces along the edgesof said plies which form the. cape and thrust edges of the collar to beformed, said stitching line running beyond the tips of said stays,and'leaving the edges of the plies normally connected to a neck bandunstitched; and turning the collar by separating the upper ply from thelower ply and inverting the plies to sandwich the end piecestherebetween.

1. A collar stay comprising an elongate strip of flat flexible sheetmaterial having a central portion extending longitudinally over a majorportion of the length of said strip; indents formed by tapered parts onsaid central portion the edges of which converge towards each other,terminating at a point spaced from the end of said strip; end portionson said strip one on each end of said central portion extending from thepoint of termination of said tapered parts on said central portion, saidend portions being narrower than said central portion; tapered ends onsaid end portions providing an entry tip on said end portions; and ahook portion on said end portions extending over said indents on saidcentral portion at a spaced distance therefrom and extending toward saidcentral portion.
 2. A stay as in claim 1 in which said end portionscomprise straight parallel edges leading from said hook portions to apoint transitioning into tapered edges forming said tapered ends, thespacing between said parallel edges being less than the maximum spacingbetween the edges of said central portion.
 3. A stay as in claim 1 inwhich said central portion has parallel straight edges extending betweenthe tapered portions defining said indents, the spacing between saidparallel straight edges being greater than the maximum spacing betweenthe edges of said end portions.
 4. A collar end piece for floatinglysupporting and in combination with a stay as in claim 1 in a collar,said end piece formed of a flexible piece of lining material contouredto conform to the shape of the ends of the collar; and spaced slits insaid end piece, each slit having a length less than the maximum width ofsaid central portion of said stay, and greater than the maximum distanceacross said end portions, said slits spaced apart a distance greaterthan the length between the transition of said central portion into thetapered parts forming said indents, and less than the distance betweenthe points of termination of said tapered parts, whereby a stay insertedinto said slots will be floatingly positioned with the slits extendingover said idents of said stays.
 5. A collar end piece as in claim 4 inwhich the points of said end piece are cut off along a line beyond theentry tip of said stay held in said slits.
 6. A sewing package forming acollar employing a stay as in claim 1, said sewing package comprising: alining ply contoured in the shape of the collar to be formed; a collartop ply contoured like said lining and positioned thereover; a bottomcollar Ply contoured like said top ply and positioned thereover; two endpieces contoured like the ends of said lining ply, one end piecepositioned over each end of said bottom collar ply, said end pieceshaving spaced slits through which said stay is extended with an entrytip spaced from the points of the collar shaped plies; and a runningseam stitched about the thrust and cape edges of said collar shapedplies between the stay tips and ply edges.
 7. A sewing package as inclaim 6 in which the points of said top and bottom plies are formed atan angle larger than the angle formed by the extension of the linesdefining the cape and thrust edges of the collar.
 8. A sewing package asin claim 6 in which said end piece has its points cut off along a linecorresponding to the base of the triangle defining the angle of saidcollar ply points.
 9. A soft collar construction employing the stay ofclaim 1, said collar comprising: an elongate bottom ply contoured in theshape of the desired collar with ends of desired shape; a toy plycontoured like said top ply; two end pieces, one interposed between saidtop and bottom plies at the ends of said top and bottom plies, said endpieces having a pair of spaced slits therein of a dimension less thanthe maximum width of said central portion of said stay and wider thanthe maximum width of said stay end portions, said stay interlaced insaid slots with an end portion of said stay lying adjacent a point ofsaid collar; and a line of stitching securing said plies and end piecesalong their edges, said stitching line extending beyond the entry tipsof said stays, whereby said stays will be floatingly secured at adesired location in said collar.
 10. A method of forming a collar with afloating stay as in claim 1, said method comprising the steps of shapinga flexible fabric into a lining ply contoured like that of the collar tobe formed with an edge extending beyond the desired bounds of thecollar; shaping a fabric into a top ply of a contour and dimension likethat of the lining ply; shaping a fabric into a bottom ply congruent tosaid top ply; forming two end pieces dimensioned and contoured to becongruent with the end portions of said lining ply; forming two spacedslits in said end pieces; threading one of said stays through the twospaced slits in each end piece, with the end portions of said stay lyingon one surface of said end piece and the central portion lying on theopposite surface of said end piece; superposing the top ply over thelining with cape and thrust edges aligned; positioning the bottom plyover the top ply with cape and thrust edges aligned; positioning a staythreaded end piece over the superposed bottom ply and top ply adjacentthe ends of said plies with cape and thrust edges aligned; running aline of stitching around the superposed edges of the plies and endpieces along the edges of said plies which form the cape and thrustedges of the collar to be formed, said stitching line running beyond thetips of said stays, and leaving the edges of the plies normallyconnected to a neck band unstitched; and turning the collar byseparating the upper ply from the lower ply and inverting the plies tosandwich the end pieces therebetween.